What is the most important thing in a restaurant? Is it the food, the décor, the waitress or the wine list? Most would agree that three of the above are important, and one is essential. Down at the Le Calamar on the banks of the Herault at La Tamarissiere, just before the river reaches the sea, there are many other attractions than the most enjoyable wine list in the region. Even when the days are so hot that you begin to get flashbacks the last canicule, the river manages to lower the temperature a degree or two. There is a good view over the river to the lights and action at Grau d’Agde. You are close enough to feel part of it, but far enough away not to hear it. The décor may divide opinions. The interior is modern, reminiscent of a trendy dentist’s waiting room, while the chairs outside are made of steel and wicker and the feel is more guingette. There are pretty hanging baskets full of flowers, but the pots are plastic. It would be a crime if a riverside restaurant did not knock up a good bit of fish, but you won’t be disappointed here. There are the usual mussels and oysters, but also salmon, scallops and fish salads. As a main course the cod is outstanding, if a bit pricey at 23€. Meat eaters will enjoy the lamb or the steak. But it is the wine list that really shines. Here you can drink Domaine Paul Mas Chardonnay Viogner for 17€, and follow this with a bottle of La Grange des Peres 2000 for 70€. These are two of the finest wines of the region. La Grange des Peres is the best wine made in the Languedoc in millennium year, and I defy anyone to find it cheaper in a wine shop anywhere in either Beziers, Paris or London. Even Laurent Vailhé, maker of the wine, does not have any bottles left. But the wines here are not the result of strenuous reading of Guide Hachette, or Parker’s favourite wines of the Languedoc. The owner is passionate about his wines, and buys them well, so you don’t have to pay too much. Compare Le Calamar’s list to say, La Compagnie des Comptoirs in Montpellier. At La Compagnie des Comptoirs it is hard to make a choice, because you do not recognise any of the labels. The best thing you can say about most of the white wines is that they are served cold. At Le Calamar, the difficulty is choosing which of your favourite wines you will go for. There is Chateau de la Negly for 23€; Mas Champart from Saint Chinian for 20€; and even a Domaine Gauby, more expensive at 53€, but still outstanding value. Perhaps the only option is to order all three, and order a taxi for the journey home. Of the waitresses there is very little to be said. There are none, or at least there were none working the last time I visited. This is surely the only complaint that anybody could make about the place.

This review is courtesy of Languedoc-Dining.com
Cost for two: 75 €. October 2002

A recommendation from a reader brought us here on a very quiet late season Monday night - apparently they close November to March. The good sized light and fresh dining room overlooks the river Herault estuary, do take the short walk down the sea. The dishes are carefully prepared and kept simple. Seafood obviously stars here but other options are far from a token gesture. Most wines are under 20 €.

There were only two other diners so it's not possible for me to be objective about the atmosphere, but using our imagination the attractively decorated good sized room should have a great buzz when busy. There is also a fine view of boats on the river Herault estuary - do take the short walk down to the sea.

The menu is announced on mobile blackboards. There is a 22 € no choice three course menu and a carte offering several more options. From the menu Sardines had been flattened and dipped in a tasty spiced breadcrumb mixture. A crousillant of chevre was certainly tasty. Grilled Dorade had been carefully filleted and then reconstructed yet tasted as if it had been cooked on the bone. Sea bass with tapenade was gutsy and not too salty. As so often happens in restaurant where fish plays a star role the desserts disappointed. A crème caramel was somewhat average and needed the caramel crust need to be freshly brûléd. Raspberries with vanilla ice cream was our other choice.

The wine list gives welcome brief descriptions of the offerings with most wines under 20 €. The dishes are carefully prepared and kept simple. Seafood obviously stars here but the land based options are far from a token gesture.
Open Monday but closed Nov - March.

This review is courtesy of Languedoc-Dining.com
Cost for two: 65 €. Many visits

Chez Philippe was a pioneer in the area for offering quality budget food. Flavour packed dishes featuring "humble" very fresh ingredients, plus portions that don't leave one feeling stuffed was the secret. New owners took over in 2003 and I've had feedback they struggle to uphold the challenging standards set by the founders. More reports welcome.

This review is courtesy of Languedoc-Dining.com
Cost for two: 80 €. September 2006

A reader urged me to try this quayside restaurant renovated by the Pourcel brothers of the Jardin des Sens in Montpellier. One advantage is that it opens every day, and for a more extended season than most by the quay. A pumpkin soup with chestnut and creamed goats cheese was good, as was mackerel on a fruit and shellfish studded cous cous. For dessert a clafoutis of plum with ice cream was fine. The cooking is certainly sound and the service excellent, but sadly the wine list is somewhat pricey. A welcome alternative to the swathes of hit and miss establishments around the quay.

This review is courtesy of Languedoc-Dining.com
Cost for two: 110 €. April 2005 + previous visits
Web www.hotel-du-golf.com

The closure of Léonce left a big gap in the region's fine dining addresses but at least Jean-Claude Fabre is now cooking here. Many signature dishes have been kept on and the seafood sauces remain to die for.A bigger kitchen brings more choice and prices are reasonable for the quality. Another plus - the contemporary hotel dining room is one of the better examples. As of 2006 the restaurant only opens evenings except Sunday lunch.

Léonce in nearby Florensac had a dedicated following and the unexpected closure towards the '90s was a big blow to the area's fine dining scene. A tip off from a reader that Jean-Claude Fabre was cooking here made an early visit essential and we were not disappointed. In season the Île de loisirs will be stuffed with tacky holiday attractions and the Hotel du Golf offers an oasis from this - all be it an anonymous international one. Le Caladoc is separate from the main hotel and the simple contemporary dining room works well. You could be anywhere, but in Cap d'Agde that really is just as well.

The essence of Jean-Claude's signature dishes have been kept on a menu offering plenty of choice, with many being available as half portions. At lunch there was a great value (now 25 €) three course offering.

We ordered cannellonis roulés aux piquillos and brandade à la chair de crabe that was endowed with a heavenly seafood sauce incorporating the unctuous dark meat from the crab. Plancha d'encornets au sofragit à la goutte acidulée was mixed with white coco beans. Sofragit seems to be a Catalan sauce that includes peppers, anchovies, garlic, onion and saffron.

Riz "Carnoli"en presque risotto, coulis mousseux aux coquillages et crevettes was a tasty shellfish rice dish. For dessert le cake chaud au praliné coulant with passion fruit sorbet plus a sushis à l'ananas, riz au lait au cœur fruits rouges, crème coco aux perles du Japon, réduction acidulée au safran made an interesting contrast to share.The wine list offers a good choice of local wines at all price levels and mark ups are reasonable. Try the white viognier from up the road.

Newly opened this year, Delicatessen is a breath of fresh air for the village of Marseillan. The cuisine is upbeat, with terrific featherlite pizzas that assuage your appetite without adding pounds to your physique. Pizza is on the menu, but not a large part of it as the dishes of the day can be anything from local seafood to basse cote. The service is really good, too, but what makes Delicatessen so special is the decor. Totally retro, with an amazing collection of objet d'art, mismatched chairs and tables, it is as fascinating to sit and study as satisfying to enjoy their cuisine. The management are vigilant in ensuring customers are well cared for and Delicatessen is a popular venue for locals, which is always a high recommendation for us. We love the atmosphere, relaxed and friendly and highly recommend a visit either for an apero, or a meal, to anyone passing through or staying in Marseillan.

Tired, hungry and desperate to get out of the car, two adults and two small children sat down and ate two bowls of fresh moules, heaps of golden frites, a grilled daurade, washed down with large glasses of chilled Picpoul, sparkling mineral water, and a couple of coffees. The sun went down over the boats bobbing on the water... tasty, blissful, and only 48 euros all in. Nice loos too.

Having read the beach bar review (Click here) we wanted to try this out for ourselves. The overall impression was good. A smart, modern place with a real buzz. We went for lunch but I imagine it would be great fun for supper. The food was tasty but beware, the portions are more summer tapas type affair, so you might want to order a few dishes - we had spicy wrapped prawns and crab salad. Both were fine but the burger our neighbour ordered looked great - I knew I should have ordered that! It is not cheap either - our lunch with puds and coffee came to €90. The real plus is the location. You are eating right on the beach. To the front of the open restaurant is the private beach lined with comfy beds and parasols and an army of waiters rushing to keep the sun lizards supplied with cool drinks. A great place to chill and people watch - I would suggest you book in advance. Please note: this is one of those beach restaurants that open for the summer season only. Plenty of parking nearby.

Last weekend we took some friends for a meal as it was a wonderful sunny Sunday afternoon. Arrived in Bouzigues and is was 'heaving' - the locals love their seafood! With no booking we worried that we would never find a table. However Julie, which is situated right on the water front near the village, were so kind. They moved other guests who did not need such a large table and made us feel really welcome. We sat on the second floor with a wonderful view over the Etang and the oyster beds. The restaurant (like the village) was very busy, but our waitress was charming and the food arrived quickly. We ate various starters, oysters, moules gratinee, gravadlax and fish soup - all were excellent. For our main course three of us went for the seafood risotto (excellent) and one grilled Salmon. This was washed down with a local Viognier and coffee. An excellent meal in a perfect setting and good value too - about €40 a head in total.

We have been to Julie's many times and always enjoyed the good food and modern relaxed style. This summer we were very disappointed with the service. We arrived early with our children for dinner and although the place was empty the only table we were offered was right by the takeaway seafood hatch where the staff were standing around drinking beer, smoking and laughing loudly. This was not the relaxed ambience we wanted but when we asked if we could have a different table they refused without a word of apology or concern. We were shocked by their sheer rudeness and went elsewhere. I doubt we will go back.

On a visit to the Noilly Prat factory in September our lunch here was much enjoyed by the four of us (Alyson, Bryan, Paul my husband and of course myself). Starters of Tartare du Salmon with Citron Dressing, Seafood Salade and Chevre Cassis with Onion Confit all served with lots and lots and lots of very fresh lettuce was much enjoyed. Mains of Cuttlefish Stew with Pilau Rice could have been spiced up, but was tasty, the Lasagne excellent and Fruits of the Sea very good. Nice fresh bread kept coming though the salad dressing could have been different to that used on the starters. The Wine a Picpoul d Pinet - Produce Medal Winner 2007 was excellent also. We all finished off with Il Flotant or Ice Cream. Coffee finished off our superb repast overlooking this tiny port, the wine harvest tractors and trailers plying their way to the Co-op on the opposite side of the port, made for a wonderful day out. We shall return here again.